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Block/Push/Hit Style - a Good Idea?

What to do and what to do it with ...


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Photo of Ko Lai Chak

Another player with his elbow stuck to his side? Ko Lai Chak (HKG) at the 2005 Panasonic Open in China

Photo by: Xie Deshi, courtesy of www.ittf.com

Julian Thomas writes:

Hi Greg, Great site. I'd like to ask a question though if I may.

I'm playing again after a 15 year layoff. In that time I was involved in a car crash and suffered nerve damage to the right deltoid muscle. I find 'abduction' difficult (i.e.moving the elbow away from the body). I used to be an attacking player (jonyer blade, sriver). Now, I just don't have the arm movement to trade loops.

My instinct is to hit early, I'm happiest between 1 and 2m away from the table. I've been trying to put together a game based on block/push/hit. I've recently stuck short pips on the bh and inverted on the fh. I find I'm using the pips more on the forehand, so I'm thinking of putting a medium/long pips on the BH so I can still block/ push but also flat hit.

So, two questions... a.is this style a good idea?? b. if so, can you recomend a medium/long pips? I've tried curl 1 r and it didn't really work out - can't hit with it!

Thanks

Julian (Barcelona, Spain)

Greg replies:

To answer your first question - Is the block/push/hit style a good idea? Sure, provided you are not expecting to be playing in the top 100 players in the world - not too many block/push/hitters to be found there. For the rest of us ordinary mortals, there is no reason that you can't play this style up to a high level. In fact, based on your injury, it might just be the best type of style for you to choose - there is no point trying to be a two-wing looper if you can't physically execute a loop anymore.

Putting a medium-long pimpled rubber on the backhand will help you to survive close to the table, but be aware that the best rubbers for blocking and pushing aren't necessarily the best for flat hitting. You may need to compromise a bit. Which rubber is best will also depend on how often you flat hit the ball in comparison to blocking and pushing with it. If you hit occasionally, go for the long pimpled rubbers that block and push well (and will wobble a fair bit), and give you an OK hit (ie Feint II & III, Stiga Destroyer). If you hit a lot, go with a medium pips that can hit well, and will wobble less when blocking and pushing (TSP Curl P-2 springs to mind - I use it myself to chop and hit with, or even the old Feint-Soft)

Bear in mind that you can also use certain techniques with long pimples to produce no-spin flat balls, which act like a flat hit, even though the stroke is not the same.

I'd suggest taking a look at my articles on Which Long Pimples You Should Use, Long Pimpled Push/Blocker Tactics and Long Pimpled Hitter Tactics as well, which will go into some of the concepts mentioned above in more detail.

Conclusion

To summarise, the block/push/hit style is entirely valid, and may be the smart choice for you, given your current physical limitations. The best choice for a BH rubber really comes down to what you plan to do with it, and how often. Make sure there is enough contrast between your FH short pips and BH medium-long pips to get the advantage of two different rubber surfaces as well.

Readers - do you agree or disagree with my advice? Want to get some advice of your own? Feel free to email your comments/questions to me, or post your insight in the forum.

Cheers,

Greg Letts 15th September 2005

Copyright Greg Letts 2005

COMMENTS

Thursday 15th September

Julian Thomas writes in reply:

Hi Greg, many many thanks!

I'm listening to a lot of advice at the moment, and gradually trying to sort things out.

I've been using a slow blade (grubba pro) with Hurricane 3 and 802-40 shortpips. I've also tried tsp curl 1 which didn't work for me. However, I've just got hold (last night!) of another sheet of 802-40 and Friendship 755 faster to put on my old Butterfly Jonyer blade. After one practice session it seemed to work very well. Attacking with the long pips was possible - it seemed to have much more gears than the curl 1p, and the 802-40 allows me to use a flatter stroke than before but still put enough top spin on to get the ball down on the table.

It has been a very disconcerting time as my muscle memory is useless, and 'how' to play has been derailed. It has had advantages though. My elbow really does just have to serve as a hinge only pretty much so I'm learning to use my shoulder turn more than I used to - my playing partner says that I'm more accurate and driving harder than I used to. The long pips (last night at least!) allowed me to take control and set up for an attack. The 755 Faster really is a great attacking long pips rubber.

Going back to the Jonyer blade (I bought it around 1980!) was a great feeling, and I think I can now put together an attacking kind of game, even if it isn't what I used to do.

Your webpages on longpips were what got me started thinking about trying this in the first place, and were a big help in giving me some hope while I was recovering.

Thanks again

Julian